Having studied images of the Old Market Square in Łódź from 2011, it’s safe to say that the revitalisation of this historic marketplace was a long time coming.
As I lived in Łódź for 18 months between January 2012 and June 2013, I’ve taken a keen interest in the regeneration programme of the City Centre of Łódź. I’ve had the opportunity to see the impact of the revitalisation programme with my own eyes during several visits to Łódź between 2018 and 2024.
Amazingly, I never visited the Old Market Square during my 18 months in the city. Therefore, I didn’t want to miss it on my latest visit to the city in July 2024.
The Layout of the Old Market Square in Łódź
Łódź’s Old Market Square measures approximately 105 by 85 metres. Characteristic tenement houses surround the north, west and east sides of the square. Zgierska Street separates the square from buildings just off the western side of the square. Park Staromiejski – the Old Town Park – adjoins the southern side of the square.
A Brief History of the Old Market Square in Łódź
The Old Market Square, as well as its immediate surroundings, were the site of the oldest settlement from which modern Łódź developed.
Until the years 1821–1823, when the new settlement (called the New Town) emerged and a new focal point of the city – the New Town Square (now Plac Wolności) – was positioned several hundred metres to the south, the Old Market Square was the centre of agricultural Łódź.
Originally, the square was surrounded by wooden buildings. Moreover, the town hall situated here was also made of wood. The Łódka River flowed south of the Market Square. It was here that a pond was created, and next to it a mill. At the beginning of the 19th century, the wooden buildings were replaced by classicist tenement houses made of brick. The area around the market square was inhabited almost exclusively by Jews.
During the Second World War, this area inhabited by Jews became part of the Łódź ghetto. After its liquidation, the houses surrounding the market square were partially demolished. The Polish authorities continued demolition works after 1945 so as to give the square a new architectural shape. By the mid-1950s, a new development of the Old Market Square was erected in the form of simplified socialist realism with three storeys, steep roofs and arcades on the ground floor. Thanks to this, the square acquired an intimate character. However, the historical, closed form of the square was lost due to the abandonment of the development of the southern frontage.
The Revitalisation of the Old Town Square in Łódź
A great deal has changed then on the Old Town Square in Łódź. First of all, the entire ground surface and pedestrian paths around it were relaid. Next, we can appreciate the many new benches, shrubs, trees and ornamental grasses that have cropped up on the square. Also worthy of a mention are the 14 new permanent trade shelters which have been installed on the square for the purposes of selling produce when trade fairs are held.
Perhaps the showpiece of the market square are the two fountains, each with four illuminated water jets with special reflectors. With nozzles hidden in the concrete, the water features are a massive hit with kids.
To the north of the fountain, one may find an obelisk which commemorates the granting of city rights to Łódź in 1423. It was in 1998, on the 575th anniversary of Łódź being granted city rights, that the obelisk appeared on the square. The boulder was moved to its new location in a modified form.
Final Thoughts
If you’re thinking of taking a walk around the centre of Łódź, don’t stop at Plac Wolności and then head in the direction of Manufaktura like I think many tourists do. From Plac Wolności, head north along Nowomiejska Street where you can cross the busy street and then enter Park Staromiejski. The Old Town Square lies to the northwest of the pond in the park.
The Stary Rynek may no longer be the central and commercial centre of Łódź. However, perhaps the good times will return to the square one day.